Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
